The Designer's Note: Trousers
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A Sense of Proportion
"When it comes to trousers, I refuse to be confined by overly narrow cuts. My wardrobe is a collection of vintage tailoring with a flawless drape, often inherited or picked up: my grandfather’s 1950s canvas trousers, a ceremonial pair from the Garde Républicaine, or an 80s gem unearthed at the Herr Judit vintage shop in Stockholm. After jumping between them for so long, the idea of bringing all these archives together into our own signature cut naturally emerged: the "Palace" trousers.
The name pays tribute to the endless nights of the Nightclub Le Palace that once electrified the entrance of the Cité Bergère, just a stone's throw from Cinabre. On the opening night of the Club, March 1st, 1978, a young Grace Jones stepped onto the stage. Her David Bowie completely stunned the audience. Yves Saint Laurent caught her backstage, swapped her blouse for a bustier, and cinched it with his own tuxedo belt. When she returned to the stage with La vie en rose, it was an absolute triumph...
That is the kind of wardrobe magic we wanted to capture. The Palace trousers aren't cut to be a wallflower. They get the job done well into the late hours.
Nailing this immaculate drape took us a year of fine-tuning. First, we built a double French pleat: traditional pleats facing inward toward the fly that free up room in the seat without ever spoiling the line. The waistband is then fitted with a small keeper for the buckle’s prong — a purist’s detail that keeps your belt perfectly aligned, even when you lose the plot of the evening. Finally, the 25 cm leg opening is balanced to the millimeter by a 10 cm blind hem.
To give the silhouette its movement we selected uncompromising fabrics: English flannels, worsted wools, Japanese cottons, cool wools, or a remarkably fluid viscose fibranne. Fabrics built to forgive all-nighters without ever putting a crease in your reputation."
